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#41 [url]

Nov 24 08 10:38 AM

Yup... Saturday morning was very fun. First sesh... Matt, I looked everywhere buddy, I could not pick your dome out of the sea of heads bobbing in the water. I had a good time and caught two decent waves, but my third one was the beginning of my frustration with the crowd. After two other blown waves due to incompetent peeps that should not have been out there, I said "F it" and cruised back down to County. I figured I would just rest and have a beer or two with the boys at the top, but then when I got there it was reeling. Clean (super duper clean.... very glass like) nipple high waves reeeling down from the point and lining up all the way to the inside of the bay. I grabbed my lil red octafish and surfed for another couple hours. Oy. Noodle arma by the time I got out of the water. Just done, lol. Sunday was dissapointing. Got out there at 7, tide was too high, but then it started to get fun around 8ish for an hour, and then shut down for the day. So I got it "decent" for an hour. The one cool thing about Sunday was that it was just localz only. It was one of those mornings where I was surrounded by all the locals, no unknowns. So, it was a hoot. ECR even made it out there for awhile. But it was cool art the point, surfing with the crew, no worries about strangers dropping in on you or having to hoot somebody off your wave. Then I came home to a fat pancake breakfast. Nice.

Skipped out on the surfysurfy this morning. I figured it would be a good day to skip. Wifey needed to see me around for a morning, lol.

I'm stoked about this week. Only working today and tomorrow. Let me rephrase that... I will be AT work only today and tomorrow. :) hehe...

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#43 [url]

Nov 24 08 3:04 PM


Yup... Saturday morning was very fun. First sesh... Matt, I looked everywhere buddy, I could not pick your dome out of the sea of heads bobbing in the water. I had a good time and caught two decent waves...

-mofo

I heard from several people that it was far bigger there than anywhere else... relly filtered into there. I also heard that the size dropped like a lead weight and that by after noon it dropped to about half of what it was around 8:30 that morning.

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#44 [url]

Nov 24 08 3:33 PM

I was in the water a little after 10... if not at 10. Best sets were two to three feet overhead. Probably a little more on the biggest of those when I was out there. I got out an hour later... the crowds were getting to me. I snapped.

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matt479

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#45 [url]

Nov 24 08 4:07 PM


 

I heard from several people that it was far bigger there than anywhere else... relly filtered into there. I also heard that the size dropped like a lead weight and that by after noon it dropped to about half of what it was around 8:30 that morning.


-shredster

i got out of the water after 12pm and the sets were definitely a lot smaller than earlier in the morning and less consistent.  biggest waves of the day were probably 8' while i was out there.  but those were REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY deceiving as there was no consequence to that 8'.  waves were soft. ducking diving them was a piece of cake.  not much top to bottom breakers cause of the high tide.  nothing like a typical 8' winter SS day.  typically after T-day things get back to normal out there. 

 

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#46 [url]

Nov 24 08 4:57 PM


i got out of the water after 12pm and the sets were definitely a lot smaller than earlier in the morning and less consistent. biggest waves of the day were probably 8' while i was out there. but those were REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY deceiving as there was no consequence to that 8'. waves were soft. ducking diving them was a piece of cake. not much top to bottom breakers cause of the high tide. nothing like a typical 8' winter SS day. typically after T-day things get back to normal out there.

-matt479

Huh!?

Are we talking about the same place?

"soft?"

I saw a good hour of solid hollow waves on the low side of double overhead range on the sets.

From 8 am - 9 am it was going off on the receeding tide. It was very typical for a very good day there. Mind you it was a short window but it was going off.

As for "soft"... I'm not sure where you were as the north end did look like a marshmellow fest of weakness but mid beach was serving up some VERY impressive barrels during that time. I got very worked many times on the inside by anything but soft waves as I attempted to paddle back out. I got held down plenty... and lots of water in my sinuses as a result.

I know it was a very dynamic day because of the very quick fade of this swell, tide, etc.

As I always say, it's not "you should have been here yesterday", it's "you should have been here an hout ago."

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#47 [url]

Nov 25 08 8:28 AM

Shred...it's all relative. When Matt (who I personally think is a great guy and a very good surfer) says it's "okay out there" I know it's going to be a buttload of fun. When Matt says "It's a lof of fun out there" I know that it's going to be going off. When Matt says it was "overhead and barreling" then I know it will be out of this world. Sealed

That said, the way Matt described it was actually pretty accurate from what I saw when I got there a little before 10. I thought it would get better with less water, I guess I was very wrong. Cool

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winddog

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#48 [url]

Nov 25 08 8:32 AM

Last Saturday I got to the beach & it was still dark.I watched it for a while & decided I was gonna go! I was first out & as I walked down to the beach I passed a friend who said "Hey watch those drops today." Boy did that make me feel good about my desision to paddle out!
It was big & pitching, I went over the falls a couple times, got crushed on take off a few times & got 2 waves.(they were fun waves though!)
Sunday was much cleaner & I got the closest thing to a barrel I've ever had!
Then on the way home got outta a speeding ticket!

The preceding message is the opinion of Winddog & in no way reflect the opinions of this bb.

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#49 [url]

Nov 25 08 9:08 AM

Mofo, like I said... "you should have been here an hour ago" sums up my point. I am realistic when it comes to conditions and know the spot as well as any local with 30 years of paddling out under my belt. I am not debating but stating it like it was. I know shitty, I know epic and I know the values in between. The only thing that raised my eyebrow in the comments he made was "soft" hence me questioning if he was out mid beach. I got pummeled plenty on the inside from the barreling sets. From what I saw, 10:00 was far from what was coming in between 8 and 9 as the south winds had come up for a while even though they backed off again but then again so did the swell as each hour went by.

It was going off early that morning in very good form when I was out and when I watched from the beach when I got out at 8:30ish.

I received this unsolited e-mail comment from speedfreek about sat and the spot...

"it was picture perfect 3-5', occasional 6 footers going about 2' OH on the sets that afternoon/evening. i surfed 2-3 peaks south of the main north jetty peak. called mcshots up and he came up and shot from south jetty and got some good stuff.

funny you surfed there because brian said, "i got some shots of 'heaving slabs', as shredster calls 'em!" when i talked to him later saturday night.

epic day, and i got some great waves."

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#51 [url]

Nov 25 08 9:27 AM

Dude... I think he didn't say anything bad at all??? I think he described it pretty accuratly from when I was there as well. I'm not saying that there were no barrels, and I don't think Matt is saying that either, he said a majority of the waves were breaking with a soft shoulder and not really a truley winter session quality that will be showing soon, hopefully.

How much coffee have you had this morning? You're comming off slightly aggro. You're all "Grrrrrrr!" Sealed

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#52 [url]

Nov 25 08 9:58 AM

haha, I didn't think you said anything bad either.

Not meaning to come off aggro. It's just the written word doing that.

Not sure what part of the beach you are referring too. Because I didn't see soft conditions where I was mid beach. North end though was relatively soft though for sure. As with any good day there you're going to get some waves that barrel all the way through to the inside and some that pinch and shoulder off. All I am expressing is this was not a morning by any stretch that I would classify as soft relative the section I was surfing. What may of come off aggro was that I was referrencing knowing the spot as well under all conditions and comparitively speaking referencing that Sat early morning.

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#54 [url]

Nov 26 08 9:29 AM

Surf has been fun and uncrowded, weather is awesome, good times. Pure invigoration, so thankful to get out of dodge for a while. Staying on the beach with a variety of surf within eyesight. 5 more days of this, can't complain.

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#55 [url]

Nov 26 08 9:32 AM

Yeah, ain't seen nothing until you've ridden lake Lugano:

air 35, water 40. 0-3 inches when the ferry passes. Clean conditions with some mild texture towards the evening do to the fan on a pedal-boat.

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#56 [url]

Nov 26 08 9:32 AM


hearing you two socalers talk shop about the 'huge' waves you catch is cute. real cute.

-ocean7847

haha, glad we could entertain you.

I don't see where I personally refered to conditions as huge though. That is personal and relative anyways.

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#57 [url]

Nov 26 08 9:19 PM

Wow... it was a sometimes good and a sometimes crappy day of surf for sure. Typical "stormy" type atmosphere out there. It would get good, winds would be fine, waves would come in and it would be sweet for a half hour, 45 minutes. Then sure enough, the winds would turn, the waves would crap out, go super mushy and flat spots galor, frustration would set in. Just when you start comtimplating paddling in, it would start raining, get glassy, and then another half hour of nice glassy rides. Surfed from 9ish till about 3 today with a lunch brake in between. Fun day all in all. I hope tomorrow morning is decent! Cool Shred, ECR. Matt? Early? I gotta be home by 9:30 so I can make a Turkey Day bloody mary for the wifey and me.

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#59 [url]

Nov 27 08 7:49 PM

surfed slightly overhead high tide sandbars at our favorite northern beachbreak. got a few racers and one barrel that I outran, but it was a nice thanksgiving day surf. no booties, once again!

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#60 [url]

Nov 28 08 3:17 PM

wow... loving the sandbars. Mofo we scored some fun waves today. chest to head high and a few that were 'and then some.' got some too ecr. i'm glad I did because it was my only opportunity this holiday period.

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