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#21 [url]

Nov 14 08 10:09 AM

Can't wait to paddle out in a few hours, we gotta wait for our 7ft high tide to suck out throughout the day up here. Yesterday I put in a four hour marathon session, not sure how long I'll be able to paddle today. Yesterday was solid overhead and today is supposed to be bigger with better conditions, although I'm not sure how you improve from hot sheet glass. Gonna head to a more remote location today to avoid the zoo in town, I'll post some pics soon for sure!

PS this was my first post and it was surf related! yeah!

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#23 [url]

Nov 14 08 5:05 PM

This is lorenzo with your el Porto dawn patrol...

2-4.  Glassy.  Tide is killing it a bit, but helping the shape.
Some head high peaks rolling in, then backing off.....right about when you start to paddle :)

It was really fun before PEAK High.

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#25 [url]

Nov 14 08 10:11 PM

DP at VC upper point. Good offshores and up to head high could see the carnege in montecito in the distance before light. Tide push strong with the large swing to high tide. I will be back there sat morning or maybe Emma if a little bigger to avoid the point crowd.

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#27 [url]

Nov 15 08 11:33 PM

Another 3 hour session at an overhead right hand pointbreak with minimal crowd influence. This place loves negative low tides and we scored again. Weather was clear blue sky and no wind, surfed without booties and enjoyed every moment. Truly an awesome run of surf right now.

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#29 [url]

Nov 17 08 9:25 AM

Sigh... so...Friday... had a blast. Surfed in the morning before work and had so much fun that I bailed at noon and paddled out again for a few hours till I had to go meet my buddies for beers (happy hour). Skipped saturday due to obligatons, and then paddled out Sunday at daylight. Kinda bit of a let down on Sunday. Lots of people, and small weak waves prevailing. I still got mine and had some fun... but I was all pumped to break out my red octafish that I had picked up from ding repair and I was all jacked to surf that. But it was too small and weak so I had to ride my rasta pig. Which was still fun, but you guys know what I mean. :)

So.. no surf for a few days, eh? That's the way it's looking around here.
Hmmm... I've been looking for an excuse to start running again. This might be it.

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#30 [url]

Nov 17 08 9:45 AM

I surfed Sat and San and both days were pretty lame. Surfed between Prospect and 56th on Saturday and it was pretty much shorebreak. There were some few small barrels to be had going right but my ability to drop late going backside, hold my rail, squeeze into a tiny barrel and exit are slim to none. All the ones I saw were guys going frontside.

Surfed Blackies on Sunday and it was a complete zoo. Wished I would brought the longboard instead of the fish but I did manage to score a few small fun waves.... and I mean small like knee high and lower. Ummm... it was good small wave practice I guess.

Hopefully there's some swell on tap for this weekend. WITHOUT THE HIGH TIDE :(

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#32 [url]

Nov 21 08 10:07 AM

For this weekend:

http://wavewatch.com/Surf-Forecast-Region.php?RegionID=6
Saturday the new WNW swell fills in everywhere else and starts to peak as it mixes with some slightly increasing SW swell. Most spots will fill into the waist-chest high range. Standout NW facing breaks, mostly through Ventura and San Diego, will have chest-head high sets. Conditions look good for Saturday...mostly light to moderate offshore winds in the morning with stronger gusts near passes and canyons. Light to moderate WNW flow will fill in through the afternoon.
Sunday the WNW'er will continue to push through at most spots but may be starting to lose a little steam in SB and Ventura areas. We will also have a mix of new SW swell (190-210) moving in from the Southern Hemisphere that will begin sending in some new sets to the more exposed breaks. The average spots can look for surf to continue in the waist-chest high+ range with some inconsistent bigger sets. Standout WNW facing spots and good combo breaks will have some shoulder-head high sets. Conditions start off clean in the morning with mostly light and variable winds and some areas of patchy fog. Light S winds around 10-knots begin to build in through the afternoon.

http://swellwatch.wetsand.com/#place=30.715201644740844_-111.575195_7_1422_height_none_Sat_-1

Saturday the 22nd the Gulf NW should completely fill in, putting most west facing breaks in chest to head high surf, coming in from 295+ with 13-second periods. South facing spots can expect some waist to chest high wrap, bigger at breaks with southwesterly exposure. Winds are looking similar to Friday, although with a bit more of a NE element to them, and less north. Most spots are likely to see NE winds 5-10 mph in the AM, turning lightly onshore in the afternoon. Tide on Saturday is high around 5:45 AM at ~5.3 feet, and low around 12:30 PM at ~1 foot.

Sunday the 23rd this NW swell should back down to chest high for west facing breaks, knee to waist for direct south facing spots. Winds are expected to be mildly offshore from the east to 10 mph along the coast in the AM, then onshore in the afternoon 7-13 mph. Tide on Sunday will be high around 6:20 AM at ~5.7 feet, and near zero for a low around 1:15 PM.

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#33 [url]

Nov 21 08 10:46 PM

Surfed double overhead+ lane this afternoon for a couple hours. Went out on my 6'6" and blew out my center fin on a bottom turn? I didn't hit rocks and I was laying my heavy ass into a serious turn when the whole board bucked right as I dug in. Popped up to see my center fin, foam, finbox, and glass ripped off.

Stinkeye was a lifesafer, gave him a call, he showed up with a loaner 6'10" and I caught some 500 yard + lines all the way through Cowells. Walked back from Cowells staircase like 3 times, my legs are still burning. Awesome, props to Iceman for giving me the call at 8:30 and getting my ass out of bed with a blonde buxom undergraduate girl. Life is good at the moment. Tomorrow should be shacking at a nice underwater canyon beachbreak up here, Blacks North if you will. More reports to come.

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#34 [url]

Nov 22 08 12:49 AM

1104 PM PST FRI NOV 21 2008

SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT UNTIL 3 AM PST SATURDAY

...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY FOR HAZARDOUS SEAS IN EFFECT FROM 3 AM
PST SATURDAY THROUGH LATE SATURDAY NIGHT...

TONIGHT
W WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 TO 5 FT. W SWELL 15 FT
AT 11 SECONDS. SCATTERED SHOWERS.

SAT
W SWELL 14 FT AT 11 SECONDS. W WIND 10 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES
2 TO 4 FT. CHANCE OF MORNING SHOWERS.

SAT NIGHT
SW WIND 10 KT BECOMING SE AND RISING TO 15 TO 25 KT
LATE. WIND WAVES 1 FT BUILDING TO 2 TO 4 FT. W SWELL 12 FT AT 11 SECONDS.

SUN
SE WIND 20 TO 30 KT. WIND WAVES 4 TO 6 FT. W SWELL 9 FT.

SUN NIGHT
SE WIND 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES 3 TO 5 FT. W SWELL 9
FT.

MON
S WIND 10 TO 20 KT. WIND WAVES 1 TO 3 FT. W SWELL 9 FT.

TUE
S WIND 10 TO 20 KT BECOMING W. WIND WAVES 1 TO 3 FT. W
SWELL 9 FT.

WED
E TO NE WIND RISING TO 15 TO 25 KT. WIND WAVES BUILDING TO
2 TO 4 FT. W SWELL 11 FT.

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ecr

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Posts: 576

#35 [url]

Nov 22 08 12:19 PM


Surfed double overhead+ lane this afternoon for a couple hours. Went out on my 6'6" and blew out my center fin on a bottom turn? I didn't hit rocks and I was laying my heavy ass into a serious turn when the whole board bucked right as I dug in. Popped up to see my center fin, foam, finbox, and glass ripped off.

Stinkeye was a lifesafer, gave him a call, he showed up with a loaner 6'10" and I caught some 500 yard + lines all the way through Cowells. Walked back from Cowells staircase like 3 times, my legs are still burning. Awesome, props to Iceman for giving me the call at 8:30 and getting my ass out of bed with a blonde buxom undergraduate girl. Life is good at the moment. Tomorrow should be shacking at a nice underwater canyon beachbreak up here, Blacks North if you will. More reports to come.


-ocean7847

 

Holy shyt! sounds sooo good.  wanna watch my kid so I can hang up there a few days??

 

 

Shredster, myself matt and mofo - all surfed the same spot(ss for short).  we surfed on different peaks and different shifts.  Hopefully we all compare notes. 

 I thought it was going off.  SS(same spot) solid 8 ft sets with plenty of top to bottom bowling sections.  shifty rolly peaks at times on the high tide. I  got 3 good ones over an hour and half.  2 rights/1 left - all over 100 yards with full power through the rails tail and fins.  Irode the 6'4 performance bonzer.   I was pleased but felt a touch out of sync since i havent had many sessions on the board or overhead in a while.  no complaints - fun stuff.

 

 

 

As the son of a son of a sailor, I went out on the sea for adventure.

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matt479

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Posts: 407

#36 [url]

Nov 22 08 3:36 PM


 

Holy shyt! sounds sooo good. wanna watch my kid so I can hang up there a few days??

 

 

Shredster, myself matt and mofo - all surfed the same spot(ss for short). we surfed on different peaks and different shifts. Hopefully we all compare notes.

I thought it was going off. SS(same spot) solid 8 ft sets with plenty of top to bottom bowling sections. shifty rolly peaks at times on the high tide. I got 3 good ones over an hour and half. 2 rights/1 left - all over 100 yards with full power through the rails tail and fins. Irode the 6'4 performance bonzer. I was pleased but felt a touch out of sync since i havent had many sessions on the board or overhead in a while. no complaints - fun stuff.

 

 

 


-ecr



had fun today.  not epic SS, but pretty good.   decent size.   mostly 6' with occassion bomb 8' sets.  really peaky and not much wall to them.  rode my MC 6'6" bonzer egg to deal with the fat tide and try to compete against the longboarders.  board rode well.  not enough juice yet out there to clean up the lineup yet off all the speed bumps. 

mofo not sure what happend to you?  thought you would have seen me.  oh well, sorry about not stopping.  from your first txt message thought you were all ready to go and waiting on me so that's why i said go ahead and i'll meet you there. 

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ecr

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Posts: 576

#37 [url]

Nov 22 08 7:24 PM

went back for an afternoon sesh at the same spot.  peaky 2-4 w occasional 6ft  waves got more inconsistant and smaller wihile i was there.  Still beautiful conditions - sheet glass.  got a couple fun ones but still not feeling it automatic. cranked a solid roundhouse backside though.  took a cut to the lip after pulling in a closeoout and catching my board with my face.  nothing serious. 

As the son of a son of a sailor, I went out on the sea for adventure.

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#39 [url]

Nov 24 08 9:30 AM

head high to overhead sets yesterday AM with 10knot offshores for like 3 hours! no barrels though, the tide wasn't quite right for it, but lined up fast whackable (gaycode joe?) walls at one of my favorite beachbreaks. rode the 6'3" hybrid fish summer short board (6'6" getting fin box replaced, 6'10" would've just been too much).

crowd was up due to the smaller size but still manageable. i got my first thrashing of the year too! took off on a bigger set wave and basically burned some guy on an egg (whoops, sort of, I didn't like the guy, he was shifty looking and basically backpaddled from across the peak). halfway into the bottom turn he squeaked "hey hey hey" so I immediately execute a flying kick out (mostly to win the bet I had w/Iceman: first flying kickout gets free lunch). so i kick out (right in front of the most rippable section too, DAMNIT) and i come down from my flight and land right in front of the second set wave, easily 2 to 3 feet OH, as it completely dumps right about 10 yards in front of me.

didn't get a chance to or WANT to reel in my board, so i just dove deep, got pulled back up and over, and rolled in the foam for a nice hold down. came up, brain freeze in full effect, out of breath, and remembering that, "oh yeah, you can get fvcked up out here if you're not on your game!"

things slowed down up here but hopefully will be up again soon!

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#40 [url]

Nov 24 08 9:51 AM

Shredster, myself matt and mofo - all surfed the same spot(ss for short). we surfed on different peaks and different shifts. Hopefully we all compare notes.

I thought it was going off. Solid 8 ft sets with plenty of top to bottom bowling sections. shifty rolly peaks at times on the high tide. I got 3 good ones over an hour and half. 2 rights/1 left - all over 100 yards with full power through the rails tail and fins. Irode the 6'4 performance bonzer. I was pleased but felt a touch out of sync since i havent had many sessions on the board or overhead in a while. no complaints - fun stuff.

-ecr

Not epic this past saturday but very very good especially when the tide started to back out. Peaky and barreling. Yes, it was busy but I got all the waves I wanted that came to me. No one dropped in on me and they gave me waves when I was in obvious position. Would be unheard of in zooport. Had one really nice left that was a grinding set wave - head high and a half or so... possibly bigger as I saw plenty of DOH waves in the couple hours I was out. The peak was mounding up right to me and started bowling hard on so I stalled and got barreled from head back for most of the wave and finished going up and over the back after it shouldered out. There were some other nice speed waves for some cuttys ...bodyboard style of course. Best large size day there of the season so far!

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