head high to overhead sets yesterday AM with 10knot offshores for like 3 hours! no barrels though, the tide wasn't quite right for it, but lined up fast whackable (gaycode joe?) walls at one of my favorite beachbreaks. rode the 6'3" hybrid fish summer short board (6'6" getting fin box replaced, 6'10" would've just been too much).
crowd was up due to the smaller size but still manageable. i got my first thrashing of the year too! took off on a bigger set wave and basically burned some guy on an egg (whoops, sort of, I didn't like the guy, he was shifty looking and basically backpaddled from across the peak). halfway into the bottom turn he squeaked "hey hey hey" so I immediately execute a flying kick out (mostly to win the bet I had w/Iceman: first flying kickout gets free lunch). so i kick out (right in front of the most rippable section too, DAMNIT) and i come down from my flight and land right in front of the second set wave, easily 2 to 3 feet OH, as it completely dumps right about 10 yards in front of me.
didn't get a chance to or WANT to reel in my board, so i just dove deep, got pulled back up and over, and rolled in the foam for a nice hold down. came up, brain freeze in full effect, out of breath, and remembering that, "oh yeah, you can get fvcked up out here if you're not on your game!"
things slowed down up here but hopefully will be up again soon!