hey all long time.
so it was pretty windy on our trip but thursday the waves got BIG. i was out at hali'ewa ali'i on the outside and saw some rollers coming in.
they looked to be a mile+ or so away down the beach to the west so i wouldnt have even though they would make it east to us. but the locals paddled out. i didnt... haha
as they approached they were getting closer and closer until i realized oh sh... they are coming for ali'i. i paddled and barely made it over the top of a double overhead. i kept going then when i was safe i turned and looked back and my buddy was missing. so were many others... cleanup set style.
i kept an eye out for him but after a while i was gettin worried from not seeing him so i went in. found him standing on the shore and he said "i hope you didn't come in cause of me"... doh!
we stayed in turtle bay. surfed turtle bay, and a few other places. dove at this sharks reef thing (cant remember the name), loved this sandwich shop in hale'iwa, surfed/hung out with xena, saw all the turtles in the water (that was rad!) hiked around a bit to the west of hale'iwa, took the waimea trail to the waterfall, and all sorts of other fun nonsense. had a blast. the people reminded me a lot of people in Ocean Beach here in SD so it was great peoplewatching. i want to go back soon.
i have a lot of pics from the DOH day and our other adventures on my facebook, friend me to see them:
my board big blue broke at north ponto in overhead surf so i havent been surfing the last year - this hawaii trip was my one and only surf since feb 2010. im so fat and out of surf shape haha. but im having a new board shaped by dan cobley, he's awesome, i can't wait to see it!
talk to you all soon,
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