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#21 [url]

Jul 22 09 8:35 AM

Maaaaaaaaaaan..... perfection. I think I know where me and the missus need to go on our next vacation.... mmmmm.... lefts.... heart

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#22 [url]

Jul 29 09 7:25 AM

The spot in the maldives is Lohi's. The resort there is now known as Hudhuranfushi or something like that. You can still google Lohifushi and get directed to the resort. I got a nice deal through a surf tour operator with the tour stuff cut out. The daily charges for rides to other breaks are insane, and--really--that wave is pretty choice if you can just relax and not worry about the other islands.

The resort is pretty good if you can get a deal on it--like less than 200 a day for 2 people. Nice snorkeling, good food, etc. It is a low-end place as far as the maldives go, so if your focused on service you might get annoyed as the staff just don't give a crap so you need to make noise if there's problems and tell them to switch you rooms or whatever. We'd just come from backpacking India, so it was paradise after that. Totally got our money's worth.

The current gets pretty gnarly at times and those tend to be the emptiest, but also most surfers blindly sign up for the tour package from their home countries and leave the break empty during the day when the boats are out. Even if you get tired of paddling for position, you could seriously just hang out on that deck all day and watch empty perfection peel away and be content. 

Got skunked this weekend here in ******* but did see some beautiful beaches, spectacular mountain sunsets, partied like it was 1999 and scoped out some excellent surf potential next time there's waves on that particular coast. Seriously, this is paradise. I hear you've got a big SW coming in. Shreddy, gil, Hyser, and surflover better get some WW waves for me.

I did it earlier, but I'll complete my set with some old Mundaka photos soon. That setup is insane. Seriously. Go there if you get the chance, even if they blow up police stations, the Basques have some awesome surf!

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#24 [url]

Aug 18 09 11:27 AM

Right, so working backwards, my first surf experience in Europe--way back last fall in Oktober... was just after Oktoberfest, of course! When else do you think I'd go to Munich?
Oh, excuse the nonsense in this post. I'm a tad sh!tf@ced off 12 year scotch, courtesy of my cool FIL. Finding surf shops in Taipei is a b!tch! Monday I head for 11 days in the Mentawais; the first 3 look pretty tame, but after that there's some action coming up in the form of a moderate S swell and then a bigger SW according to the models today. Oh f--ing kick@a$$! However, before yall gnaw your wrists off with jealousy, be aware that I didn't get to f---ing surf from August to f---ing November, and even then it was that sh!tty little wave you see above, which hardly counts. Mundaka was better, but sloppy as all getout and HUGE. Not really all that fun, just a test of mettle. I would've prefered it on a 4 foot day (because it's an AWESOME setup, but more on that in another post) as opposed to the 20' day I got.
But anyway, back to Munich. Yes, there's a river wave there. Yes, there's a bunch of f---er's "surfing" it. It's all of 7 inches high and gayer than Paris. So are the jerks riding it. Well, maybe not, but i'm still bitter I didn't have a shot at it.
What I did do in Munich: Arrived on the day before Oktoberfest ended. Dashed in past a bouncer and drank 2 liters of beer in one of the MASSIVE beer halls. Stood on tables. Sang in German with a bunch of f--ing Ozzies. Went and club-hopped at the kartoffeln factory--a huge club complex on the other side of town--after Oktoberfest shut down at midnight. Walked back to midtown at 5AM. Got some coffee at 6AM when the coffeshops opened and checked the news on my PSP. I think there was a McDonalds in there somewhere, because it was the only place  open and that night was effing COLD! Headed back to Oktoberfest at 10AM when the beer halls reopened. Had a 10AM liter of beer. Had an 11AM liter of beer. Haha. Stumbled to the hostel. Passed out until 6PM. Back to Oktoberfest. Had a 8PM liter of beer. Sang a sh!tload of German songs. Broke my beer mug. Had a 10PM liter of beer. Had a midnight liter of beer and snuck the mug out of the beer hall. Not like that was hard or anything. 
Yeah, I saw some other bull$h!t cathedrals and such in Munich, but who cares? I can't talk about the rest of the stuff--some NAZI $h!t--I saw in the area without adding a major downer to this post, so don't worry about it.
So, now, the moment you've all been waiting for: Pics!

[image]
[image]

-sponger42

I drove to Munich 2 days ago, spent the night and drove back yesterday. It's only about 4 and a half hours from my house. Beautiful city. I didn't see any nazi stuff aside from a few buildings built during the Hitler years. I REALLY liked the city and as usual the germans were polite. So OF COURSE I went to see the standing wave at the Englischer garten. It isn't "surfing" but it's still practice and looked like a lot of fun. One dude there was going crazy on the wave, really making the other guys look mediocre.
One thing I will complain about are all the mice I saw at night. Then again I didn't see any pigeons so I guess it was ok.
Nice city, I recommend it to anyone unless you're bothered by churches or Catholicism!
I haven't been lucky enough to retrace all of Marcus' steps yet but I don't mind trying!

Keep the pics coming Marcus

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#26 [url]

Aug 31 09 3:00 PM

Holy Shit Mark!! So sick.  No time to get too wordy here today but those photos speak volumes! I was just talking to Ken about you the other day and how it's kind of strange not seeing you around any more.  We were so use to seeing you for the last several years.  Well it looks and sound like you and Jaci (spell? I'm so bad) are having an amazing trip!  Say hi to her and of course, hi to you! 
 
(I hadn't been on this site for a couple of months, at least. so I am just now logging on for a few and seeing your thread updates... AMAZING!)

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#27 [url]

Sep 1 09 12:13 PM

HEY ZEN!!! You saw this, right?
[url]

-mofo

Oh man, you're giving me ideas... I've ordered a quad from another shaper and it's ready to be glassed, I'm just having a hard time communicated the desired color since I'm on the other side of the pond. Oh man, I'm totally jacking this thread.

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#30 [url]

Oct 21 09 8:23 PM

Well, that's it. Game over, man. Game over. I'm a thousand miles from the nearest surf, no boards, and I just ebayed away my wetsuits (for a profit since I got them for a Benjamin at the ripcurl outlet! Haha!).

So the boards stayed back in ****** where I will be going over Xmas and hoping to hit my little secret spot. No need for wetsuits, even in January.

In July I headed out to the north coast of *******. Found a little cove with a nice beach but only a tiny bit of surf. I'll probably try to go back when the swell comes in. Looks like it might have a nice break with enough surf. Here's a pic.



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#31 [url]

Oct 21 09 8:31 PM

After the calm sunny cove in the north, I drove down the coast and stopped at a well-known spot. The surf was pretty small and blown-out. There were a lot of people in the water, so I passed and headed further south. Ended up at a black-sand beach north of a big harbor breakwater. There was a CH-SH wave breaking off some sandbars just off the breakwater and more surf down the huge beach. There were tons of locals out enjoying the beach and maybe 5 surfers in the water, 1 of them actually decent. 

The wind was kinda on it, so it was pretty fat and chunky, but better than nothing for my first surf in a long time. Don't have any decent photos, so here's a bad one.


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#32 [url]

Oct 21 09 8:47 PM

A few days later, I headed out for another surfari down the coast. Weather was great and the waves were decent. My first stop was my favorite left-hander. It was a little mushy, but still made for a good morning session.

Continuing on down the coast I scoped out another spot rumored to be even better. I found the place and parked out near a small harbor. A rocky promintory juts out into the ocean. The south side is all rock and doesn't look like it would support any decent surf even in bigger conditions. A small boat harbor nestles up against the promintory on the north side. The wave wraps around the promintory and breaks out beyond the harbor. It's either pick your way across sharp rocky gravelly terrain, or jump in at the harbor and paddle around. I chose to paddle around. The wave was breaking over a not-very-deep pointy rock reef. Long lines were rolling in, jacking up as they hit the reef, and delivering a fast right-hand wall with a tiny barrel. It was only CH to start, and dropped to WH as it wrapped around toward the harbor. On a bigger day, the setup would be better, but as it was, I didn't waste much time there.

Finally, with the sun getting low, I stopped at one more spot. This place was a cobblestone beach split by lava flows, waaaaay back behind an isthmus to the south. There were 3 little waves peeling cleanly off the lava thanks to a light offshore wind. Only the northmost beach was rideable at WH. I caught a few waves just to check the spot out, but these were grovelling short waist-high peelers only a few seconds long. In truly massive surf, these protected spots and bendy coastline will probably really deliver no matter what the conditions.

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#33 [url]

Oct 21 09 9:01 PM

The next day involved a lot of back-country driving to find the southernmost tip of the island. The surf was too small to do anything with, but it was a pretty drive. Later in the day we ended up in a little resort town on the south coast. There were more little waist-high mushballs breaking over yellow sandbars near some truly beautiful and deserted beaches. We spent the night wandering around a night market, eating great street food and drinking ourselves silly. We stopped at a secluded beach with a pretty happening bar right down on the sand. The stars were out between a few clouds reflecting the city lights. It was a nice place. 

The next day we headed up the coast and ran across a clifftop coffee-shop/truck under some pines overlooking the blue ocean. With a little more surf, the cove down below the coffee spot could've been rideable. As it was, further north up the coast I ran across an armored bend in the coastline. The surf was being bent into great little A-frames by the geometry of the coast, but it was pretty brown water. 

I parked along a deserted road and picked my way between giant concrete jacks, down to the water. A quick paddle-out later I was dropping into steep HH+ a-frames under the blazing noon sun. There was a workable CH wall after the initial steep drop. No barrels, but really nice fun conditions. It would end up being my last surf, and I have to say, for being on the wrong coast, it was pretty darn fun. I rode it for about two hours before the rising tide started shutting things down.

After that, we headed up to a famous mountain for a picture-perfect sunset in the clouds.

I know I've got pictures of the spot somewhere. I'll post them after I dig them up.

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#35 [url]

Oct 24 09 11:22 PM

Maybe. Maybe Not. 

I found some pics of the coffeshop and surf spots from my last post. Enjoy!

The bridge is to the promintory and island near the sheltered surf spot with small waves. The sunset beach is one of the deserted yellow sand beaches with small surf that I talked about.

The clifftop canopies and truck are the seaside coffeeshop. 

And the armored coastline with good surf was my last surf spot. 






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#37 [url]

Oct 24 09 11:33 PM

M-----f---ing Mundaka biznitches!

And now a whole bunch of non-surf-related photos. 

These are a tiny sample of my most interesting asian photos. There's bars in Phuket, beaches from vietnam, thailand, and malaysia. Waterfalls in China, mountains and lakes somewhere near Pakistan, skyline from Hong Kong, Ryoken photos from Japan, and some other cool stuff. Oh, and photos from a ferry between Patras and Venice.















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#40 [url]

Jan 5 10 8:53 AM

Back in the saddle again! With Xmas time rolling around it was time to get the heck out of flyover country and head to foreign lands for a little R&R.

I made it out to my favorite left-hand point a few days ago. Toasty warm water, overcast skies, and some fair chest-high windswell rolling through. The point was turning the light side-shore winds offshore as usual and cleaning up the windswell into something pretty darn fun. The forecast was 6 feet at 7 seconds, which was about right. Faces were 4-5' and the action was pretty nonstop.

The tide was a little high, so the outsiders weren't throwing like usual. They were just workable mushballs, and you had to milk them to the inside where they would line up and throw a slightly steeper wall for you to carve up.

Inside, and almost right on the rocks, the barrels were showing. After an hour, I finally nutted up and started catching the insiders. They looked closer to the rocks than they actually were, and the barrels were sick! This place is such a forgiving wave. There are almost NEVER any sections, and the shoulder is S.L.O.W. Just drop in, hook up high, stall, and drop back into a gurgling tube with little tiny tweaks to take you down the line just behind the lip right there in lodged in the gray-water barrel. Even if it shuts down on you, you just get spit out, set up again, and slide right back in there. About 100 yards down the line the whole thing finally peters out and slams into the boulders right in front of a resturant. You can ride your last wave in to a postage-stamp-sized grainy sand beach, hop out, and sit down to a nice bowl of noodles, or fish with rice. And beer. Lots of beer. Awesome!

Here's some photos. My cameraman (brother in law) was stuck in a bad position for shooting, so you only get to see the sloppy outsiders. Refer to earlier photos I've posted for an idea of what the barrels look like.

This is a great place to live, and surf! Happy New Year, all ya pukes!






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