Back in the saddle again! With Xmas time rolling around it was time to get the heck out of flyover country and head to foreign lands for a little R&R.
I made it out to my favorite left-hand point a few days ago. Toasty warm water, overcast skies, and some fair chest-high windswell rolling through. The point was turning the light side-shore winds offshore as usual and cleaning up the windswell into something pretty darn fun. The forecast was 6 feet at 7 seconds, which was about right. Faces were 4-5' and the action was pretty nonstop.
The tide was a little high, so the outsiders weren't throwing like usual. They were just workable mushballs, and you had to milk them to the inside where they would line up and throw a slightly steeper wall for you to carve up.
Inside, and almost right on the rocks, the barrels were showing. After an hour, I finally nutted up and started catching the insiders. They looked closer to the rocks than they actually were, and the barrels were sick! This place is such a forgiving wave. There are almost NEVER any sections, and the shoulder is S.L.O.W. Just drop in, hook up high, stall, and drop back into a gurgling tube with little tiny tweaks to take you down the line just behind the lip right there in lodged in the gray-water barrel. Even if it shuts down on you, you just get spit out, set up again, and slide right back in there. About 100 yards down the line the whole thing finally peters out and slams into the boulders right in front of a resturant. You can ride your last wave in to a postage-stamp-sized grainy sand beach, hop out, and sit down to a nice bowl of noodles, or fish with rice. And beer. Lots of beer. Awesome!
Here's some photos. My cameraman (brother in law) was stuck in a bad position for shooting, so you only get to see the sloppy outsiders. Refer to earlier photos I've posted for an idea of what the barrels look like.
This is a great place to live, and surf! Happy New Year, all ya pukes!
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