Soon I'll be eating the pacific chasing my first barrel. Did you know it's like $200 to bring a surfboard on an airplane? Friggen re-donk dude that sucks. I was all stoked to bring back a board, like the ultimate souvenir. Buuut, I'd rather spend that money on good times. 10 days 12 hours 27 minutes and 40 seconds til I land. Sweet.
Dude! where y going? Your post made me excited too. YOur first barrel is when time slows way down and the image is burned into memory. I remember when surfboards were free if you worked it right.
He's going camping near trestles. Looks like he's going to score that monster 40'+ swell that's about to rear it's head down near the Pitcairn Islands.. Coming in steep with lots of angular spreading decay, but should bring in some good energy.
That sounds bad ass. Not gonna lie dude, given my lack of experience, that post sounds a bit like a headstone. Ha. Yeah ecr I've got a campsite on San Clemente for a few days so hopefully I'll get into some nice sessions. I don't really know what to expect, but I'm super stoked to be on vacation and not be landlocked anymore.
Well the 40'+ seas are going to be down near Antarctica travelling northeast, but like a rock dropping into a pond the waves in a swell travel outwardly, though strongest towards the direction of the swell. We're directly north of the swell, though a few thousand miles away, but the angular spreading decay actually refers to the decrease in swell that we will see that a 40'+ swell travelling straight north towards our coast would give us.. which with a swell like this one actually comes out to about 5-6 feet at about 19-20 seconds I believe.. That's quite a swell, probably would be double overhead or more at trestles quite lots of other spots and it would be the best south swell we've seen in 3 and a half or 4 years... but the angular spreading decay from this swell is significant, so the swell will definetely have some size, but it will be more inconsistent and probably about half the size if that.
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