Anger/Depression & the big wave surfer

I definitely take greater risks when I'm angry, but maybe not when I'm depressed.

I can't relate this to surfing though because there is often a bit of fear in the back of my mind when I'm in the water.

The biggest wave I've ever ridden didn't seem that big when I was paddling into it. In my mind it was huge. I though at least double overhead but who knows. Anyhow, I was more excited than anything as I was incredibly lucky to get that wave. I was surprised. Not angry. Not depressed.

Interesting topic. I wonder if perhaps the adrenaline of anger or the resignation of depression has this effect on surfers.

I am new on this forum but I think I can offer some incite on this topic from one adrenaline jucky to another.

Adrenaline like any other drug, is addictive.  And the more of it you get the higher your tolerance gets.  When you get your fix from riding big waves and then their are no big wave's in the not to distant future to ride you go though withdraws that result in anger and depression.  I grew up with a lot pro snowboarders (many that have made it into the X-Games), and when there was no snow to be had they would turn into angry drunks.  Until they finds other ways to risk their lives.  LOL trust me I have some stories...........

Same with surfing, if your drawn to surfing for an adrenaline fix, then you need bigger and bigger waves and you are willing to travel farther and farther to get them to get that same rush.

I started surfing 10 years ago and went everyday for 2 months straight.  Now it's hard for me to get excited unless it is overhead and firing..........But that's why the garage is full of other adrenaline fixes to get me though the flat spells

There's an episode of "Iconoclasts" where there's an hour long conversation between Laird Hamilton and Eddie Vedder about music and surfing.

Laird Hamilton talks for a bit about this exact same thing. You should check it out.

"It's like you're a dragon slayer and all there are no more dragons" (or something to that effect).