don't get down to Blacks
much anymore. its just weird
paddling out a place you've been
surfing for 39 years to find
150 guys out...and they all seem
to know each other...and then
they hustle you like you're a
new jack. like...who the fuck is this guy???
you ain't USCD surf team, dude.
Old age is tough.
Blacks is still beautiful
though. i know the names
of all the trails...and i know
who named them...so what, right?
now they've got a name for every peak on the beach.
middle peak? south mids? huh? proper Blacks is three things:
The Road, The Point, and THE NORTH PEAK.
lemme tell you about October '74...September '75
10 foot Southern Hemi reverse Honolua with a 95 degree Santa Ana
for a week straight. it has NOT happened again,
so when you miss it, you really do miss it.
i can't imagine what a swell like that would
look like now...5000 people in the water?
'76...'77...1980 was good. '83 would kick your ass no matter
who you were. Pascuales with cold water.
Freight Trains.
geez...its 2009...what do i expect?
uncrowded Blacks? the world
was supposed to end a while ago
anyway. all this stuff is gravy.
this session with Bracker
wasn't too bad. it was much better
at the Shores this day. Oh, and in '74 all
the old guys told me how crowded and shitty it was.
thanks Anthony Ghiglia for the pics.
Yeah, change is a constant. I enjoyed the post....
up here we have old school guys(over 20 years in the lineup) getting vibed, waxed and tires slashed by groms trying to bring back the order created by the very guys getting vibed.
I read this Gerry Lopez quote somewhere and saved it in my day planner as a head check:
"The inner place of harmonious bliss is layered over with ego, individual belief systems, and mundane concerns. We live in the past where nostalgia makes us sad, or in the future where our worries cause us anxiety. We fail to grasp that this moment we are in is all there ever was or ever will be. Life is, was, and ever will be, simply now."
"The inner place of harmonious bliss is layered over with ego, individual belief systems, and mundane concerns. We live in the past where nostalgia makes us sad, or in the future where our worries cause us anxiety. We fail to grasp that this moment we are in is all there ever was or ever will be. Life is, was, and ever will be, simply now"
Friggin awesome. Very cool. I like it.
But it will never fit on a bumper sticker.
beautiful pics!
Blacks is indeed a magic place.
I only surf it a couple of times a year and find the crowd less "bad" then at other spots.
But i did not grow up surfing that place so i can only imagine how frustrating it must be to see this spot be taken over by "the crowds"
This Topic Is Locked To Guest Posts
It's been a while since this topic was active, if you'd like to get it going again, please post as a registered member
