Tales/Reports from the North Shore

no i'm still a kook. i just surf bigger waves, thats all. not much improvement in the skill or style department tho... :( LOL

no i'm still a kook. i just surf bigger waves, thats all. not much improvement in the skill or style department tho... :( LOL

-xenaknight

Yeah right. You cannot surf big consistent surf and not improve. Nice try Xena but we're not buying it!!!

So stoked for you! Just reading that made me feel super wave starved this afternoon here at work. Tomorrow and Sunday would be great days here but I've got Mia duties as Christine is working. I might hit up Ventura though with Ken if he can make it and he'll have Andrew (his boy). He said he'd sit out with Mia so I could paddle out if I wanted. We'll see if it works out... it's a long shot. Anyway enough of my non-surf issues and back to your north shore stoke!

Keep the Xena reports coming!

mat: siiiick! is that u? thats so badass!!! :D

OOOOOOOH MY GOD. my session today was so epic you all probably wouldn't believe me if i told you. but i'm gonna try anyways so here goes. :D

don't ask me where, cuz i'm not gonna say. but it was basically a smaller version of yesterday. and the best part was, there were only TWO OTHER PPL out the whole frickin time!!! cuz i paddled out and there were 2 ppl and they left, then two more came out. but the second round of ppl kept sitting in the wrong spot so i got any wave i wanted. :D :D i pretty much got at least 2 waves everytime a set came thru. i'd drop one of the first waves, then paddle back around and maybe catch a shoulder of one of the last waves in the set.

dude, the session was so magical i can't even describe it. it was perfect. just peeling Rights and Lefts. almost no wind. so smooth and clean and nice open face. no crowd. it was just soooooo mellow. i'm STOKED! :D

theres a contingent of ppl up here that i like to call O-DOGs. Old Dudes On Guns. wherever you surf, you always find a couple of old dudes who are always riding guns, no matter the size of surf. they're pretty funny. anyways, when i first got out there was an O-DOG and his friend out, and they were hilarious. lol.

the sets were solid OH-1.5OH+. i paddled out with my 8' gun and at first i thought i might have been overgunned, but it worked out really well cuz i needed the paddle speed to drop the bigger sets. and it was just so perfect. :D cuz if i had a smaller board i'd have to do an under-the-lip takeoff which i am not too keen on.

it was such a quintissential hawaiian day. rockin surf, mellow day, sunshine, warm, saw my buddy (that guy Kainoa, he was out with a 6'10 SUP) who had a 6 hr surf session, talked story for a while, then my buddy pulled up with a trunk full of coconuts and proceeded to crack them open. LOL

STOKED. yes people, it is possible to find a spot to yourself on a 4-6' swell (hawaiian size) in the midst of the winter surf season. :D

btw, when i report in "hawaiian scale", i'm not trying to be a badass or anything, thats just how they report it out here so its how i reference things u know?

Sounds like fun. I have scored lots of epic surf by myself or with only a few in the lineup on Oahu. Most surfers are sheep, leaving uncrowded waves for people who use their heads & put in effort. I hope thats the way it'll always be.

Oh yeah, hows the sandbar at ehukai/ pupukea right now? I've had some fun days out there. Emphasis on the fun.

big Z...lol, ya i know the general area you like to surf and hell, u can have it! lol. i don't like paddling out there for many reasons. as do a lot of ppl i know. so rest assured that your spots will probably forever be uncrowded and awesome. :D i actually dunno what that sandbar looks like, i never check there unless sunset is zooed/unsurfable. last time i looked was a week or two ago and ehukai was breaking way outside (big swell) and looked epic. dunno how that inside sandbar is tho. last year it was kinda bleh. but year before was awesome.

Saturday report:
HOLY CRAP. todsy was one of those days where weather was kinda crappy and surf at sunset looked like shit from the beach, but once u paddled out it was frickin epic. at one point there was maybe 5 ppl around, and the west peak was just CRAKING, and i was like, is this for reals?!? lol.

honestly it did look pretty menacing from shore. sunset can be like that sometimes on a crossed swell. but once u got out there, it was actually kinda soft and mellow. almost "mushy", if sunset can ever be described as that. lol.

but ya, i got some frickin awesome waves. but i was so sleep deprived i cut my session short after 2 hours. i don't like surfing big days when i'm sleepy, especially at sunset. i kinda need all my wits about me u know? and if i'm not focused, its not a good thing. lol.

its funny cuz i knew exactly where i needed to sit, but for some reason i would always just be a little too far inside. so i kept getting smashed by the big ones that would come at the west peak. lol. after that happened a few times, i decided it was time to go in and go take a nap. lol.

what a frickin awesome day. STOKED. :D

can't wait to get out to hawaii. CA SUCKS right now. swells not hitting and the tides killing it.

can't wait to get out to hawaii. CA SUCKS right now. swells not hitting and the tides killing it.

-matt479

Dude! Where were ya Saturday afternoon??? ya know where i was. best session of the weekend by miles....

I get your point though with the picture above - Wow.

Dude! Where were ya Saturday afternoon??? ya know where i was. best session of the weekend by miles....

-ecr

i didn't get up until 8am so i was stuck waiting out the high tide. checked the from ventura point all the way back down home. only spot rideable was the rivermouth but the stentch coming off the sewage plant was NASTYYYYYYYYYYY

Dude... you've known Matt forever bro... if it's under head high his only description is "sucky", lol!

Dude... you've known Matt forever bro... if it's under head high his only description is "sucky", lol!

-mofo

head high on you is waist high - on me. i need size just to get my fat ass into a wave.

head high on you is waist high - on me. i need size just to get my fat ass into a wave.

-matt479

Can someone translate all this gay code for me.....

i need size just to get my fat ass into a wave.

-matt479

amen brother. In order for me to drag the shortboard out into the water for me to ride it has to be head high. Anything less I get pissed due to my fat ass. lol

I am working on losing the weight though. Too bad I am battling the cold that is going around.

Geeebezus, you guys act like I'm 5'6 165 (friggin Kelly Slater). Dude, I'm just under 5'11" and about 195 elle bee's man. I ain't no tiny lil boy, lol.

back on topic

dude, i do not miss california at all. not one bit. :D :D

so, today was interesting. really stormy and just nuts. i paddled out at pupukea and it was pretty damn insane. it wasn't huge, just solid OH and not really throwing all that hard. but it was scary as hell. wind was blowing the rain sideways, waves breaking all over the place. almost victory at sea conditions. there was no one else out (conditions were shit). my buddy and i decided to paddle out. he didn't make it out. i somehow did (got really really lucky), and i turn around and i see my buddy waiting at the beach. so i thought, shit. it was pretty damn scary out there with not another soul around. there were a handful of ppl at ehukai tho. i just got one and came in. it was just scary out there. O.O screw that.

so anyways, went to lanis after. (sunset beach was not happening at all, a few out at kammies but i don't like that spot). lanis was pretty lame. oh well. paddled around, got some excercise. got rained on a lot. damn rain. makes everything so....wet. lol. :D

oh well, can't win all the time. kinda wish i jsut stayed home and read and do yoga or something. :) but hey, i'm definitely not complaining. life is good. excellent, even. STOKED. :D