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This morning's surf report...

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fanatic - founder
1491 posts

Surf was fun this morning but a bit of a letdown compared to what I heard was going on yesterday. I spoke with a few guys last night and they were telling me that Zuma was cranking barrels and my buddy in South Bay said it was the best day all year. So I charged it this morning, on it early and drove to Zuma... sigh... nada. Went back up the road and found some waist highs to enjoy. Fun, but nothing to write home about.

I bet it was so good up north. Damn. Missed it yesterday. Damn. Double damn.


Maybe tomorrow morning....

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fanatic - founder
1491 posts

I'm getting tired of early high tides.... this is friggin old already.
Well, just a few more days until daylight savings time anyway...then no mo dawn patrols for a few weeks.

Grrr.....

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superstar - member
391 posts

I'm getting tired of early high tides.... this is friggin old already.
Well, just a few more days until daylight savings time anyway...then no mo dawn patrols for a few weeks.
Grrr.....

-mofo

look at the tide book for the rest of the year.  high tide is pretty much every single morning.  summer 1st low tide of the day is at sunrise then it switches around October where high tide is at dawn patrol.

fanatic - founder
1491 posts

Dude... looks like a LOT more body surfing in my future then. I dig the high tide shore break when I'm body surfing but it's getting old for those days I wanna shortboard!! sad

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fanatic - founder
1491 posts

UUUGGGHHH!! The high tide was so sucky this morning... I wanted to punch it in the face! Grrrrrr.....

Sigh.... it looked like it would be fun in a few hours after the tide backs off....

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regular - member
106 posts

woow  cold and windy
only 2 guys out.... if the wind calms down (unlikely) i will go for a lunch session.

regular - member
106 posts

UUUGGGHHH!! The high tide was so sucky this morning... I wanted to punch it in the face! Grrrrrr.....
Sigh.... it looked like it would be fun in a few hours after the tide backs off....

-mofo

i'm in luck, spot within 5 minutes on my bicycle kinda likes high tide.

superstar - member
563 posts

whassup guys?  anybody surf anything over say,,,,, knee high recently? 

Been out of the loop for a stretch - Life has been crazy lately but I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.  Putting a board on order,,, kinda figured out my career dilemma - over a month off work to surf this winter - things are looking up!

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She puts the sugar on my tongue
superstar - member
391 posts

whassup guys?  anybody surf anything over say,,,,, knee high recently? 
Been out of the loop for a stretch - Life has been crazy lately but I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.  Putting a board on order,,, kinda figured out my career dilemma - over a month off work to surf this winter - things are looking up!

-ecr

not much surf for me either lately.
cool thinks are looking better on the job front.  must be ok if you're ordering a new board?  what you getting and who's shaping shape it?

fanatic - founder
1491 posts

Ya getting another Griffin? surprisedevil

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superstar - member
563 posts

naw, no mas por Griffo!  His boards pack less foam than I like.  I thought I was was getting a groveler but ended up with a good wave board.  I guess thats what you loose in the translation between SoCal and Hawaii. 

Order is not placed yet but I need to replace the Manny.  That poor board has been put through the grinder.  Most likely going to have Ian Z. copy it.  Wouldn't mind getting a new thruster too.  The pics from our Nicaragua trip convinced me I need to go shorter on my 'performance boards'.  I could see my back foot in front of my fins and lots of drawn out turns instead of tight arcs.  I kinda regret not bringing the Griff on that trip - oh well.

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She puts the sugar on my tongue
superstar - member
391 posts


Order is not placed yet but I need to replace the Manny.  That poor board has been put through the grinder.  Most likely going to have Ian Z. copy it.  Wouldn't mind getting a new thruster too.  The pics from our Nicaragua trip convinced me I need to go shorter on my 'performance boards'.  I could see my back foot in front of my fins and lots of drawn out turns instead of tight arcs. 

-ecr


also something i noticed on other pre-Nic pics of myself.  plus my stance really wasn't that wide and lot of open foam from my front foot to the nose.  that's when i decided to start scaling down the length of my shortboards.  going from 6'6" down to 6'.  easy to do just adjust the width.  also gives you a lot of confidence to ride shorter boards on bigger days.  i haven't riden my 7'er or 7'6" in years.  might want to consider something like a CI pod-ish shape.  good alternative to a fish/speed dialer while having that looser thruster feeling.  i'm sure Ian could probably shape it.


superstar - member
563 posts

Yeah, always fun to try new shapes but I just love that Manny and it is BEAT!!

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She puts the sugar on my tongue
superstar - member
391 posts

Yeah, always fun to try new shapes but I just love that Manny and it is BEAT!!

-ecr

hear ya on that board.  my zamora speed dialer is a great board.  but my first choice if there's a little bit of punch in the waves is to go with my pod-ish tri-fin.  going with a duplicate of the manny might be good cause you've got something that Ian can look at first hand to see what you want.  always a risk telling a shaper what you want without any reference material.

regular - member
90 posts

Haven't been riding many waves lately. But a few days ago I was checking the forecast and it looked like 12ft @ 10 seconds for tuesday with offshore winds. So I knew I had to go, and I decided to take my camera along for the ride. It was firing, but I kooked it bigtime. Serious current had me out of breath, kinda heavy and almost all closeouts too. Good thing I am a bodyboarder. The pics don't do it justice.

This is a view of the spot... everyone was hanging out on the left side of the bay for some reason. The right side, where all the above pics were shot had larger, hollower, more lined up waves. I had it all to myself.

After a while I got sick of getting pounded. Walked a mile or 3 to a beach that is more sheltered. There was a mean shorebreak. Mostly closeouts, but also some fun wedges. Just bodysurfed it, got a few in and outs, so stoked.

Offshore slab. This place would be a surfers paradise, but unfortunately most of the swell exposed coastline is steep cliffs.

Been doing a lot of hiking lately, here's a pic from yesterday's mountain expedition.


superstar - member
563 posts

Wow man -awesome post Bigz0.  i can tell there are some nice energy and heavy lips!  looks like your spending your time in a nice place..

this morning - soft 3 ft energy getting swamped by the tide.  beautiful conditions and morning - and a few fun runners if ya got the right spot.  mahalo for the bonzer - i saw jj get a few good rights.  his ankle was hurtin though.  your board made it surfable for him.  i got three on it too.  manny was my call.

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She puts the sugar on my tongue
regular - member
72 posts

c-st was good fun today...small WH but good fun adn ccccooooolllld offshores....

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Quit yer whinin' and just Run What Ya Brung!
superstar - member
563 posts

grin

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She puts the sugar on my tongue
superstar - member
391 posts

c-st was good fun today...small WH but good fun adn ccccooooolllld offshores....

-steamroller

for anyone but steamroller, how's the water temps lately?  4/3 or still 3/2?

fanatic - founder
1491 posts

Wow man -awesome post Bigz0.  i can tell there are some nice energy and heavy lips!  looks like your spending your time in a nice place..

this morning - soft 3 ft energy getting swamped by the tide.  beautiful conditions and morning - and a few fun runners if ya got the right spot.  mahalo for the bonzer - i saw jj get a few good rights.  his ankle was hurtin though.  your board made it surfable for him.  i got three on it too.  manny was my call.
[image]

-ecr

Good, I'm glad the board worked for him. No worries brada, anytime you need a board man.

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