So stoked.
Happy.
Relaxed.
At ease...
Soooo not stressed about anything right now...
I surfed this morning. 
The little bit of swell we have been waiting for is starting to trickle in. I will be on it this evening.
And tomorrow. Sunday. Monday morning. Etc.... till it is dead and gone...
Damn I missed surfing.
NICE!!!
Date and Time: 8/21/2009 12:47 PM
Swell Summary:
SSW: 2.2 feet from 189 degrees at 20 seconds
WNW: 2.4 feet from 254 degrees at 11 seconds
Wave Heights (face height in feet)
NOTE: Due to the long periods of the incoming swell (20 seconds), the following max wave heights may be infrequent as these are likely forerunner waves.
| Surf Spot | WNW Waves (face height) |
SSW Waves (face height) |
| Rincon Point | 1 - 2 | 1 - 2 |
| Ventura C-St. | 2 - 3 | 3 - 4 |
| County Line | 2 - 3 | 3 - 4 |
| Malibu | 1 - 2 | 3 - 4 |
| Hermosa | 2 - 3 | 1 - 2 |
NICE!!!
[image]
Date and Time: 8/21/2009 12:47 PM
Swell Summary:
SSW: 2.2 feet from 189 degrees at 20 seconds
WNW: 2.4 feet from 254 degrees at 11 seconds
Wave Heights (face height in feet)
NOTE: Due to the long periods of the incoming swell (20 minutes), the following max wave heights may be infrequent as these are likely forerunner waves.
Surf SpotWNW Waves
(face height)SSW Waves
(face height)Rincon Point1 - 21 - 2Ventura C-St.2 - 33 - 4County Line2 - 33 - 4Malibu1 - 23 - 4Hermosa2 - 31 - 2[url]
-mofo
little correction
Porto at night...
Swell is showing, saw a real nice set of forerunners that completely closed out because of the period and low tide. Another foot of water would really help. I am guessing things are going to be a little walled tomorrow...but still could be fun. Tides will be really important...low tide in the very early morning could be a board snapper. Sadly, the good tide is going to be when EVERYONE is out.
The sunset was beautiful
I surfed the cliffs at HB Friday evening. It was Ok.
Okay, after actually surfing this morning, I must say that it was a little better than first reported. The surf was good, but the problems were the long lulls and strong currents. You basically had to paddle in place between sets...which could take 15-20 minutes. The sets where fun though...had a couple of nice rides.
surfed small inconsistant mushers friday night with mofo,
took a pass yesterday after check'n it and decided i missed the party - tide filling in
went back earlier this morning and scored
did 5 tours through the surf zone drifting north
fairly consistant
low tide rising
had 4 in n outs or should i say head dips since it was only 2-4
about 1 in 3 threw ya over the falls or left you airdroppn to the flat
after a couple hours
it was a definite score for summer surf
stoked
cant wait for more this week
snapped these as i was leavn
these are average waves for this am
the empty left(3 ft) spun for about 30 makeable yards!
ECR... I might be down for tonight... I need to check and see how this week will be playing out...
NOOoo!!!! I just wrote a long story about my morning in Malibu...and the submit failed.
NOOoo!!!! I just wrote a long story about my morning in Malibu...and the submit failed.
-wooha
let me guess.
few good waves pretty inconsistent and thick crowd. bet one of your waves involved getting dropped in on. maybe resulting in arguement. but hey it was a sunny day at the beach
ECR... I might be down for tonight... I need to check and see how this week will be playing out...
-mofo
I'm going tonight but not to the usual. i have some errands to run and i'll try from there. I'm hoping the wind isn't too outta control. anyway, get it while ya can!
last night was everything from good and empty, to terrible and emptly.
let me guess. few good waves pretty inconsistent and thick crowd. bet one of your waves involved getting dropped in on. maybe resulting in arguement. but hey it was a sunny day at the beach-matt479
inconsistent for a while, but that changed into lots of good waves...no one dropped in on me. I only saw one drop in at third point...and that resulted in an argument. For the most part people were well behaved.
I caught one beautiful beautiful wave....made my day.
Ok...will try again..shorter version.
Got there..paddled out to third point on my zippi fish. Sat outside and wide, didn't want to just jump into the lineup...after about 15 minutes of watching...a big set rolled in...rolled in wide and right to me.
No one around me...no one in my way!
Dropped in waaay late...wave pitched over my head...screaming down the face..did not pearl, somehow my little flat fish fit perfectly into the wave...bottom turned down the line and then it sectioned and blew up.
Not a long ride, but a great fast drop...
Wooohooo! Wooha.
ECR... just realized that I need to pick up Summer after work today. Then I'm heading home. You are more than welcome to join us back at our pad if your interested.
I will be on it most mornings this week, if not all of them. Afternoons will be a crapshoot since the wifey is nesting big time and has lists of hunny do's that are cooked fresh daily.
long lulls ... and soft i lost interest after 30 minutes... first real over hyped swell of the summer.
water is nice though
Water was very nice. Stoked on that... good night.
On it early... 
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