Nice LA. I was out at CL this morning and had some fun. A lot of closed out mushburgers and a smattering of some decent rides. I caught three or four decent waves. Kinda fun. I couldn't believe the crowd that was there when I showed up a little after 5am. Friggin nutso. Anyway, I had my peek to my self for awhile and a majority of the guys who paddled out there were sitting n the wrong spot, paddling away from the wave when they were trying to catch it, or sittting waaaaaaay too far outside for the waves, so I was able to score as many as I wanted. It was funny. I felt like I was sitting there with a bunch of decoy ducks floating around me. 
Funny we usually call them Surf bouys... only problem is if they get in the way when you take off or if they are in the "Carnage& Flotsam" of a big closeout set!
I'm going to the cliffs tomorrow early before the wind kills it. Probably surf the gap before Bolsa.
its still going off out there! geet sum!
surfed lowtide beachbreak 3-5 occ 6, chunky dumpy mix of long period southwest and windswell nw. you can really feel the long energy trying to duckdive <--haha. rode the 5'11 modfish as a quad and was stoked. LOTS of water moving. i covered over a mile twice between the drift and surfing predominant lefts. had a handful of really fun hh ones.
have fun
Alive and still surfin...finally have something worth talking about!
Porto was waaaay overhead with a lot of water moving. It was like a river out there. Caught a couple nice ones but got tired of walking back to my spot, over and over again. Would have gone north, but the wife leaves town tonight...meaning I'm going north tomorrow.
surfed a point north of malibu for the 2nd time this swell. everything in the far N part of the county was too big, dare i say it, and just closing out. was in the water for nearly 4 hours today. pretty damn fun. some sets pushing the 8' mark. had a handful of really good rides, but also lots of problems with the crowds. the idiot factor was high today, also on the road too. had this INSANE wave that was lining up but asshole Brazilian snakes me BAD and refuses to kick out after I'm hooting him off. Get up close to him and then he turns straight into me knocking us both down. had some heated words with him but held back from punching him in the face cause didn't want to risk getting arrested. guy was oblivious to others around him and someone else said he did the same to him earlier. Also witness a SUP'er nearly decapitate a guy. Guy gets a great 8'er and this SUP guy starts to drop in on him. SUP'er starts to pull out but looses control of his board and bails it right in front of the guy already in the wave.
Kind of can't wait for the swell to die down a bit were all the beach breaks and other spots that were closed out are ridable tomorrow. hopefully that spreads out the crowd.
was this the first under hyped swell in a while?
i did not really follow the forecast but man this swell has some serious muscle.
confirmed double overhead on sets. i need to get a smaller board, after i lost 10 pounds i can't duck dive these bombs anymore, my elbows are done. i'm going to pick a mellower spot tomorrow
I passed on the HB road trip. Surfed Zero's. This swell had some bite. Got in through the backdoor but couldn't get out the front door. Some Israeli girl got stung by a bee in the parking lot and was freaking out because she's allergic to bee's and now she's a goner. So friggin Hans from Denmark, another concerned/amuzed bystander like myself, runs to his car and comes back with this fucking bee stinger remover kit. No shit. He puts the fucking suction tube over the sting and pumps the venom sack out. A few more pumps and out comes the stinger. I am standing there without words. Then Han's asks me for a cigarette. I offer him a pack. He declines but takes one and seems to like it. The Hebrew girl thanks everybody at Zero's and leaves. I put on my wetsuit and go out for a second sesh of well OH surf.
Classic feedbag. you cant make up the stuff ya see on these well publicized summer swells.
5 days, 3 boards, 4 spots, one swell, SUPER STOCKED
surfed these this am. photo one would turn into picture two. so fun.
North LA point that I used to surf with Nooms back in the day. Well overhead sets...a lot of fun! The place seems to belong to paddle boarders now. They don't share at all. Take a wave and go right back outside...40 feet more out than anyone else. Sat outside and picked off the ones that went wide. A couple of them were talking about yesterday and said it was REALLY big.
I forgot how slow that wave is. I was out on my 6'10 mod fish and I was having to hop into the wave after I popped up. "Come on, come one, here we go..." and these were the overhead waves. A lot different than Porto, that is for sure.
In all, glad I went. It was a nice change. If I go back, I'm taking my longboard.
swell dropped a LOT
still fun ho
pe we can squeeze a couple more days out of it but i think it will be flat by wed.
These people aren't even surfing it. They are tourists from all over the damn world watching the surfing show. Who the fuck brings a bee stinger remover kit to Zero's?
And then uses it?
There was one guy cooking up some BBQ on one of the tables. Suddenly I hear "Oh my fucking GOD! LOOK AT THAT!! His wife and kids are like, WTF? He points, I walk over from my car, (I was on break, between sessions- had just scored a stuffed potato and some macoroni salad at Trancas Mart and was waiting for it to settle). It was a big wave walling up at the point, pretty much like the ones that I elevator dropped and shut down before I could complete a bottom turn. I actually had to surf a few of these "straight". The ones I did make put me under the lip but then the next section collapsed. I couldn't connect the sections on the largest sets and I was riding a gun. Nobody was completing on those sets. A lot of guys were just refusing them. Still, I'd rather be riding them than getting stuck just inside- and that happened about four times too. I was exhausted after each of the two sessions, but damn- can we please have some more of that?
These people are comming from Europe, Israel, Australia, Canada, the Mid West, the East Coast- to watch Joe Blow surfer at Malibu on a good swell. Cracks me up.
North LA point that I used to surf with Nooms back in the day. Well overhead sets...a lot of fun! The place seems to belong to paddle boarders now. They don't share at all. Take a wave and go right back outside...40 feet more out than anyone else. Sat outside and picked off the ones that went wide. A couple of them were talking about yesterday and said it was REALLY big.I forgot how slow that wave is. I was out on my 6'10 mod fish and I was having to hop into the wave after I popped up. "Come on, come one, here we go..." and these were the overhead waves. A lot different than Porto, that is for sure.In all, glad I went. It was a nice change. If I go back, I'm taking my longboard.-wooha
sounds like you and I were at the same break. I was there friday but work went nutso and I didn.t make it back out over the weekend.
i'll blow it our... wer u guys @ o'S?
Me too for a sesss.
tonight me and mofo,,,, and,,,,ummmmmmmm, one other guy>>>? ....!!!!
plenty of workable 3 footers.
fun time trading notes while kissing this swelll goodbye.
she was sweet(follow me here)girl analogy
we had the building attraction session,
we had the synchronized lust session,
we had the violent s&m session,
we had the fun comfortable session,
we've had a goodbye kiss,
thank you,
Yeah, kinda wondering the same thing.. Surfed with him on Monday night and nada peep since.
where ya at?
Semi-Annual Sales meetings. We had all of our sales folk from around the country here all week. My liver is now officially toast. All week just boozing with the boys every night, catching up and getting face time with the people that I need to have face time with. Nothing is better for your career than boozing with the bosses. Just got done yesterday so today I had easily three hours of doing nothing but returning emails and phone calls getting caught up this morning.
It was a great swell, eh? Wooha, I checked that spot you were talking about that Saturday as well. Zamora & I cruised around all Saturday checking out every spot from where you were all the way up to CL. Yeah, it was looking pretty mushy as well & lots of paddle boarders (no ECR, not 0, but south of there- reef break that starts with an "L") so we continued up. 0 looked fun, but I headed out to my usual place just because of the scene. I know everybody there and with enough of us out there is some regulating and that was much needed that day.
Great waves, it sounds like everybody scored. Feed, that beesting story cracked me up.
Stoked. Still. 
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