This morning's surf report...

This was at 5 AM this morning!!!!

damn crowded here too. Fun surf though even on the high tide at 6pm.
My strategy worked. Go for the smaller insiders and dont wait for the bigger sets that were inconsistent, crowded and closed out.
Playing on the inside with the kids works. And screw all you "tankers", sorry i was in the way when u rode the white wash 

Nice man. I scored much mo bettah this morning. I had some good fun, and the waves were waaaay cleaner than yesterday. I had much mo fun this morning. Stoked.
Oh, and it was better when I first got out there around 6ish when the tide was still comming in.

I reset my goals... an air before 41.

-mofo

ha ha ha ha ha
hell is going to freeze over and pigs will fly in 2010

(sorry mofo but i've got call ya out on this one)

Welcome back, post pics, and your motivating me even more.

not back yet.  still enjoying the 80+ degree water and fun surf.  3' to 5' today, light offshores and only 8 off us in the water for MILES.  FUN rights and lefts.

Nice, stoked for you guys man. Enjoy and bring back waves, pics, and some good stories.

This wave is overhead.  Matt and I plus 3 others out  See ya in a few.

anybody surf this morning?

fun when the sets came but the lulls were killing me. and what's up with the water temps?
everybody is back in full suits and i'm thinking about pulling out the 4/3 

I surfed on the 4th at a very popular N LA Co spot and you're right, the water was freezing. Must be arctic upwelling from the glacial melt.

MoFo said that the 4th was a 'family day'. It occured to me that would be a good time for me to surf alone. Even though the beach and the parking was a bit packed- I had the point al to myself. I became "the thing" for the beach partiers to watch as they laid around with- their  families. Hope I gave them a decent show.

I surfed on the 4th at a very popular N LA Co spot and you're right, the water was freezing. Must be arctic upwelling from the glacial melt.

-feedbag

Yeah I was sort of bummed about the cold water, I thought I could get away with a spring suit or even trunking it. Turned out I wore a full 4/3 and it seemed I needed it with the icey water and brisk sideshore. on that last big swell I was springing it though.

It's the upwelling.

I surfed 36th street this morning.  Weird lines but definitely a few fun ones to be had.  The crowd was thin and the water was freezing cold.  It's been a while since I've surfed so it was fun to be back out.  I surfed Trestles on Saturday and the water was warm.

Anybody surf this morning? How was it? Small I bet. I need a longboard.

Friggin buttload of boards and not one long board.

I'm going to break down and do it. By mid August I will have a beater log. Or a decent one that I stole from some suckah!

Yesterday morning was fun though. I got there (Mofo's Point ) right before low tide (low tide was about 5:30) and I sat there for about 15 minutes waiting to see what the waves were doing and where it was breaking. One lonely guy heading down and he was paddling out at the south side, well away from me. Cool, grabbed my wetsuit and changed over. I noticed the abundance of kelp on the shore with the low tide (thank you cold water for all the kelp!! Grrrr...) and figured that a leash would not be a good call. So I grabbed my octafish and paddled out and had a blast. I set my expectations very low, two waves I figured. I beat that by a mile. I must have surfed for about 45 minutes with nobody around, catching waist high waves from the mid bay all the way to the inside, so glassy, peeling perfect, and oodles of kelp that didn't slow me down a bit (I  the high line with no leash!). Wave after wave, just a couple strokes and I was in, down the line, off the top, swoop accross the section, one last turn and then kick out the back. I didn't have to swim for my board once. A perfect morning.

Until 7. That's when the two tribes of overweight 45+year old guys started stumbling down there trail holding their big azzz long boards with... it couldn't be... no way... it is... three of them were wearing webbed gloves. Oy.

I knew my session was at an end at that moment. Sure enough they all paddle out and sit right next to me. All within 25 feet of me. I was the ONLY ONE OUT!!! There were two other points that were breaking the exact same as mine, but NOOOOOO they had to paddle right next to me. I laughed at them and then myself. I didn't recognize one of them. Surrounded by faces at a place I surf every morning and I didn't reconize one person. It was sad. Then a set came and boards were flying everywhere. It seemed that they all thought that letting go of there boards was standard etiquite when dealing with white wash.

It was time to go to work... took a nice clean left and went in.

All in all... not bad. But people, in 64 degree water, you do not need booties, gloves, a cap, & webbed gloves! Please make note of this. Please. You made me hot just looking at you. And not in that tingley good way. 

Freaks.  

LOL. Glad I stayed home again. Nice and toasty out here in the inland. A good day to just buzz. I bet it was flatness everywhere.

It was for sure this morning. Just a dead sea. I sat and stared and wished as hard as I could, but just flatness. Damn low tide drained what little bump was left this morning.

I had a blast last night though! I pulled up around 7:30 and it was looking pretty small as well but still had some fun bowls scattered up and down the bay so I grabbed my board and left the leash in the car.
I was grabbing the smal waist high lefts that were peeling on the inside of the bay and was having a blast. Then I took off on one little nugget, saw it was going to close out, I made myself as tiny as I could and scrunched myself in that little close out almound and sure enough, it spit me out the other side, I stood up again and was laughing my ass off and stepped off my board into ankle high water. A couple of guys had just gotten out of the water and were watching from about 10 feet away and were standing there with just stupid grins on there faces laughing as hard as I was.

Isn't it funny how tiny little barrels can make your day? It can be a crap tiny day, but make one little nugget clean and it's suddenly all good and life is great.

Surfing rocks.

Hey Kerry!
 Gotta agree bout those few "Nuggets"....and I found the same to be true yesterday under the same conditions...Hit one of the Encinitas (Well known Beachbreaks) with a 9'8" quad pintail, and another friend showed up with a (Museum Templated) solid balsa full scale Simmons board... and we paddled out into the 1/  to sometimes 2' surf....That Simmons is Perfection no matters what the conditions....
 I've so rarely seen or heard so many apologies from persons down line who (I guess) just thought they were dropping in on a regular LB... with their thrusters and fishey's only to realize that suddenly there was somebody THERE gently picking up their noses and tipping them back over the wave as he went flying past.... That thing screams!!!! What a great board... I would really love to own one...
  But for myself,...I also has a fun time,...Or I should say made a fun time....Got myself squeezed into a couple of those "Hero Barrels" that I will be getting the seawater out of my sinuses for a couple of days because of... Made a couple of those Unmakable sections to hook up a couple of really long rides, where when You pill out you are dragging a half ton of seagrass and some kelp in the loop for your leash!!!  I also was being a "Smart Ass" and went to do some "Pay Back" on a good friend of mine and went to Drop in on him on this one particularly hollow wave,... well,... I spun out,... ended up doing a full on faceplant into the wave and it felt like I had been totally "BitchSlapped"!!!! All in all there were 6 of us and we all  had a great time!!!

Those are the best days Dragger. Funny, when I think back on all my best surf sessions over the years I often think of not only the wave but also the friends I was out there with.