This morning's surf report...

I bet it was fun there this morning. Soooo... what about the tide?  

-mofo

tide started getting pretty low as i got out.  inside rocks were showing.  size also slowed down with the lower tide.  early in the morning it was breaking at the point and off the stairs.  then the sets swung in really wide.  so all that helped spread the crowd out.  some nice pretty long walls

couldn't sleep last night from stoke overload!  pulled the trigger on a sick day early.  went to the reefer(no mofo?) and caught a couple fun ones 3-4 occ 5.  swell definitely lost alot of the punch.  great conditions though but not satisfying the need for speed.  after an hour or so left to spot two.  ledgy dredgy beachbreak with the local 'no friends' crew.  fun hh lefts.  had to pick em out or just go for the sectioning walls and pu in sai!  left there to the gym for an hour.  gonna be ready to paddle in two weeks.  stocked

Went out yesterday and I'll admit a few things.
1) It was the biggest day I've been out since my back surgery last summer. 
2) a 9'-10' set came through and I freaked the **** out. paddled my ass off outside and barely made it over the top of the first wave and nearly got thrown backward on the second. I mean it was a scratch at it for your life sprint up the face for me. After that one passed, I looked behind me and saw the mahem. I was the only one who made it far enough outside. The lineup was obliterated. One guy came up pouring blood from a gash on the top of his noggin.  Everyone else got wiped away, though I'm sure a couple of the shortboarders hanging inside got the ride in. nobody else was even laying on their boards. Of the 10-15 people who were around me before that set, 2 out of 3 never came back out. There was an exodus of people carrying their boards up the beach to the lot.
3) After that, I knew I was in way over[my]head. I was too far outside to catch anything but monsters, and too freaked to hang inside and risk fucking up my back with an inevitable pounding. F***.
After sitting out there alone for 20 minutes or so, I chose the softest looking of the big boys to ride in, and it was fun and all but I was still wicked nervous. I let it take me all the way in and added one more body to the exodus.
I had a good portion of a bottle of Don Julio by the pool and I'm tkaing the day off today.
I'll head back to the same spot tomorrow and get back on this f-ing horse.
...
It's weird. I knew I would be physically limited after surgery, I just didn't think it would have that big of an impact on my confidence. I just need to take this one day at a time, I guess.

-losangeles

Heavy!  before ya know it - you'll be praying for another day like yesterday.  I bet ya got your adreline fix though

couldn't sleep last night from stoke overload!  pulled the trigger on a sick day early.  went to the reefer(no mofo?) ...

-ecr

Wifey had a project fail to launch last night and had to go in early, which means that I took care of the little one this morning.  I'm heading over there after work today and seeing if the wind is on it. Hoping I score like you did yesterday.

Oh, and couldn't skip out of work today... too many things (deals) going on and besides, I'm taking like 8 random days off in the next two weeks. I'm sure I will score some day or another.

 I'm heading over there after work today and seeing if the wind is on it.

-mofo

check out the new HD webcam.  kind of cool.  but still not enough for me to pay for Surflie

damn too bad the tide is so high in the evening
yesterday around 5 pm  was  just too slow.

Heavy!  before ya know it - you'll be praying for another day like yesterday.  I bet ya got your adreline fix though[image]

-ecr

Yeah, I guess the biggest lesson for me post-op is knowing what my limitations are. Before, I guess I was your average idiot who didn't recognize any limitations whatsoever .

I remember one big winter swell when I popped up way too late and my body skipped down the face of a bigtime wave - smack-smack-smack-smack-WOOOSH!!! and my board shot up into the air so high that it pulled on my leg. The "jerk" made me knee myself in the face so hard that I saw stars. I eventually got my head out of the foam and I laughed and laughed and laughed. I thought it was the greatest thing ever.

That was adrenaline with no fear. Some would call that ignorance.

The adrenaline I felt yesterday was definitely real, but the fear changes it.

I'm 37 years old, and I am mortal.

It only took 20 broken bones, three fake teeth, and multiple purple scars to get here, and here I am.

I know now that I need to find that rush through training and discipline and stepping up one foot, one degree at a time.

If I'm in this for the long hall, I need to keep my eyes on the horizon and pace myself or I won't get there.

Surf was SOOO much fun this morning. Got some waves with Matt this morning. I also got some waves with ECR last night. Wow, it's been so much fun the past few days.
My buddy Stephen must have caught 5 head high waves in 5 minutes and we were all looking at each other, blown away by how dialed in he had it.

So much fun, such good times, I hope everybody is getting some of this.

Stoked!

Got my good fix yesterday.

Went to a nice soft spot in south OC (everyone knows where I'm talking about, so I don't even need to name it.)

Sometimes frustrating there because just when you think the wave is going to break, it backs off.

Got more than enough good rides to make up for the session north of there two days before.

Very, very satisfied.

Yup, yesterday sure was fun. I paddled out this morning and had some fun. I might ruise down to the Bu for an evening sesh tonight. All up to the winds.

Damn, I can't believe how much fun I've been having. I swear I've surfed every day for the last couple weeks. Stoked.

Super fun session Saturday morning early.  watched the swell fill in friday night.  headhigh NW walls marching in with a very light and surprised crowd.  super consistant and FUN.  3rd wave of the morning - my leash got snapped!   continued to surf the reeling lefts for another hour or two.  unfortunately, swimming to the beach cut my session short a bit but the winds were tearing it up early.

outstanding surf again yesterday.  the real energy was only available at select spots and there are only a handful of spots in all of socal that can pull that steep of south AND that steep of NW.....  didn't see any surfers even checking - stocked

Shut up. I slept through my alarm for some reason this morning. I think my ringer was turned down, but not sure. Bummed. Tried to get out last night, but the winds were on it.
Oh well, I will be offa work from Thursday morning to the following Monday. I'm sure that I will be able to find some surf somewhere.

This morning was weak. I was the only one out there for a little bit. Then joined by a few... then a few more... lol.

I caught what I had set my expectations to... 3 waves. I got 'em. Sooo weak.

Hmmm... maybe we can get something going here later on today? Filling in throughout the day? Maybe? Tomorrow morning?
Pleeeeeeeeease... I only have two more days to bust an air before I turn 40. Damn it.

Sigh....  

if i was you i'd get ready for an evening session.

it got real fun today, late morning. (north san diego county)
pretty consistent up to shoulder high and some insiders even have a little punch to them

Hmmm.... wind. That will be the only real obstical for this evening. Def tomorrow morning I will be on it.

So I turned 40. I still haven't been able to get an arial.

I reset my goals... an air before 41.

Hmmm.... wind. That will be the only real obstical for this evening. Def tomorrow morning I will be on it.

So I turned 40. I still haven't been able to get an arial. [image]

I reset my goals... an air before 41.

-mofo

my board did a nice aerial  this morning, at least 5 feet,  almost landed on my head, damn that eps stuff is so light.

Well, I can get the board out of the water... I just have trouble landing them. I'm not counting it until I land it. Now I only have 362 days to land one.

Well, I can get the board out of the water... I just have trouble landing them. I'm not counting it until I land it. Now I only have 362 days to land one. [image]

[image]

-mofo

If landing, problems is.......then required is balance.

If your serious about learning airs get a skateboard, and practice on the ground.  You can practice 100 ollies on a moving skateboard in an hour as opposed to 3-4 air opportunities in a surf sess.  Plus if you can't land an ollie on moving skateboard (stationary doesn't count) you will never land one in the ocean.