pretty fun surf Friday & Saturday, plus Sunday had a few left overs.   crowd was kind of thick but able to catch my share.  good to finally get back to riding a board other than my longboard after nearly a month.  looks like we have a couple days of downtime before the next swell. 

Dude.. Monday was way better than Sunday. Friday and Saturday were fun too. I still think Tuesday around 2 was the best of the week. No heads in the water, shoulder high, peeling and clean.
The rest of the week was fun too. Good week of surf.

You need a 6 vehicle accident with fatalities blocking PCH if you want to score in Malibu.

Nah, you just need to go everyday. One out of every few days I score close to empty waves. I just happen to be one of those people who try to paddle out every morning. This means that I catch some days that the reports say 1-2 and it's really waist to chest and nobody is out. Such as last Tuesday. It happens, just have to be persistant.

You need a 6 vehicle accident with fatalities blocking PCH if you want to score in Malibu.

-feedbag

fatal accident at Temescal Canyon on Friday.  blocked the PCH pretty good, but Malibu was still CROWDED.  way to get waves at Malizoo is to bum rush that place with 10/15/20 of your friends.  create your own crowd to control the lineup.

WASHINGTON – A new El Nino could be approaching.
Sea-surface temperatures have been warming in the tropical Pacific Ocean, suggesting the potential for the development of the El Nino climate phenomenon this summer, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
El Nino conditions are associated with increased rainfall across the east-central and eastern Pacific and with drier than normal conditions over northern Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. A summer El Nino can lead to wetter than normal conditions in the intermountain regions of the United States and over central Chile. In an El Nino year there tend to be more Eastern Pacific hurricanes and fewer Atlantic hurricanes.
In recent months conditions have been neutral — between the warmer than normal El Nino and the cooler La Nina conditions.
Water below the sea surface has been warmer than normal, NOAA said, and warm conditions both on the surface and below normally precede the development of an El Nino, changing wind patterns and potentially affecting climate worldwide.
Computer models that forecast climate differ, the agency noted, with some predicting arrival of El Nino while others expect continued neutral conditions.

no shit it's developing since El Nino always follows La Nina which 08/09 was.  but it'll be a couple years before a full El Nino effect is in play.

Surf this morning was "interesting" to say the least. The tide was super low, making it very interesting. One big wall. Well, my expectations were very low when I paddled out so I guess I atleast met my expectations, lol. I caught probably three waves that allowed me to make a few turns on and that was that.

There was swell in the water for sure. Check it out today when the tide fills in. I bet it gets fun. I bet it's fun down in SD right now.

Hmmmm... it looks like the swell might be slowly creeping in.... 

waist high this morning,
wind trashed it early

maybe later this evening....

Surf was so much fun last night, drove down with a buddy to check it out and it was nice, clean, and not too crowded. Good times. I was beat when I got home last night. I actually needed a morning to sleep in and recover. It was so good and so much fun last night.

Some serious rippers on the point last night too.

??no waves??  Friday had some fun = chest high closeout sections.

4 hour session on saturday evening.  went surfing straight from a friends funeral.  i was not in the mood for any bullshit and made it known.  i made,,,errr,,, contact with 3 other surfers - lol.  had some fun waves too.  got one sweet backdoor barrel with clean exit.  still figuring out the griff 5 fin.  spent sunday training for me and Matt's Nica trip at the end of the month(5 mile run and 2 mile paddle).

Cant wait to get some tonight - Wed....   I love the steeep souths.  They light up some spots where I know I can surf relatively alone! Not a bad run of swell.

Cant wait to get some tonight - Wed....   I love the steeep souths.  They light up some spots where I know I can surf relatively alone! Not a bad run of swell.

-ecr

today was pretty darn steep and closing out a lot.  some BIG sets.  safe to say some 8'ers.  mostly lefts but kind of closed out and the current suprisingly was strong enough to pull you out of position.  i bet the beach breaks where you're thinking will be pretty good.  heard they weren't breakin Friday/Saturday.  but this swell is bigger than the forecasters where call.  guess can't be suprised about them getting a south swell forecast wrong.  one place i'd be tempted to surf today, where I thought I never surf, is Sunset.  pretty good size for there and would be fun on a fish.

ecr - i'll stop by your house Saturday to talk about the trip.  Darren H & his brother are having a b-ball & bbq gathering up the street from you that i've got to go to.  some other guys from our highschool class should be there too.

I'm looking at Salt Creek right now (OH MY GOD I NAMED A SPOT!@!@&*#) And the set waves are pumpin.

Heading down to the park south of Testles (OH MY GOD I DID IT AGAIN!%!@&^@) and getting wet for a spell.

Pics maybe? forgot the camera charger again, so we'll see if the battery lasts.

Yeah, frustrating morning. Caught a couple waves... one right & one left... they were the only good waves I caught. On top of that it was one of those sessions where I felt like I was floundering on every wave, even the ones that I made. Oy.

Need to start running more, good point ECR.

fuggin epic session tonight.  socal reef break working right and left, consistant 4-5 w/ occ 8.  so nice to have sooo much wide open room to play on a few, throw fans not buckets!  even some barrel sections.  ended a 2 1/2 hr session by setting up on a dredging fast right hand section.  2 exact replica rights then going for the 3rd and as i'm driving off the bottom i slide out.  ride one more in.  talk to a couple guys on the beach staring down my board.  not unusual with the griffing 5 fin(lots of guys think its a quad/thruster combo and that i'm a kook and have all fins in - lol).  get to my car and realize i lost my inside rear fin - fugg.

it was a trip.  right when i showed up a wind started crossing up the lineup.  made it weird for about 20 minutes - the lineup emptied!  wind stopped and it got glassy again - STOCKED!  this swell is the shiznit!

Dagnabbit... wifey had to go to work early this morning... so no surfysurfy for me. Soooo gonna hit it up after work. Any play-yahs wanna surf CL after work today?
Providing the wind doesn't turn it to crappola and I score like ECR did last night....

Fantastic 4's arch nemesis was fun this morning.  crowd stayed light.  big sets to start off with but then it started to die out.

That was a weak clue. I figured it out in 2 seconds. But then again, I am a little bit comic book geeky.
I bet it was fun there this morning. Soooo... what about the tide?